Nhau uye Press

Sid Vicious aisazombotenda kuti hembe dzake dzekare dzaikosha zvakadini uye kuti vatengesi venhema vaizoenda kune hurefu hwakakura kuti vanyepedzere.
Kasiri kare, London-based pop tsika munyori wenhoroondo Paul Gorman, munyori weThe Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, uye Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman akawana chidimbu chaMarr.Shirt naMalcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, munenge muna 1977, kuti iongororwe.
Yakagadzirwa kubva muslin uye inoratidzira girafu ino zivikanwa ipapo nemuimbi Jamie Reid yemaoko eSex Pistols' "Anarchy in the UK" imwe chete.
Kana chiri chokwadi, ichawana mutengo wakanaka paokisheni. Pakutengesa kweBonhams muna Chivabvu, hembe yeparachute yaVaMcLaren ya1977 naMs. Westwood yakatengeswa nemadhora zviuru zvitanhatu nemazana matanhatu nemakumi matanhatu, pamwe chete nejuzi dema uye dzvuku remohair rakarukwa nedehenya uye. crossbones uye "Sex Pistols" Hapana Ramangwana "Lyrics" inotengesa $8,896.
Zvisinei, VaGorman havana kugutsikana kuti hembe yavaiongorora ndiyo yaitaurwa nemuridzi.
"MuMuslim haachashandi mune dzimwe nzvimbo," VaGorman vakadaro. "Asi kumwewo, jira rakanga richiri nyoro.Iyo inki yakanga isiri yemhando ye1970s uye haina kupararira mumucheka.Achibvunzwa nezve tsvarakadenga iyi, mutengesi akabvisa chidimbu kubva kuimba yeokisheni ndokuti chakazotengeswa pachivande. ”Kungori hembe imwe chete yakafanana muunganidzwa wemuseum, Gorman akadaro, "uye ndinofunga kuti zvine mubvunzo zvakare."
Tikugashirei munyika isinganzwisisike uye ine mari yakawanda yemapunk emanyepo. Mumakore makumi matatu apfuura, tichinyepedzera kunge kugadzirwa nemaoko nemagadzirirwo epakutanga anosanganisira S-and-M uye mifananidzo yakasviba, kucheka kwetsvarakadenga uye tambo, mauto akawandisa mapatani, tweeds uye latex - Sid Vicious uye. vezera rake muna Anarchy Chii chakava nemukurumbira munguva yemafungiro - chave indasitiri yekukura.
"Ini ndinowana maemail akati wandei mwedzi wega wega ndichibvunza kana chimwe chinhu chiri chokwadi," akadaro Steven Philip, muchengeti wemafashoni, muunganidzi uye chipangamazano." Ini handisi kuzobatanidzwa.Vanhu vari kutenga goridhe remapenzi.Kune nguva dzose 500 fakes yechokwadi. "
Kwehafu yezana ramakore, Mr McLaren naMs Westwood vakavhura imba yavo yekudyira, Let It Rock, pa430 King's Road, London. Chitoro ichi, chave kunzi Worlds End, ndiko kwakaberekerwa fashoni yemumugwagwa. Varidzi vayo ndivo vagadziri vakatsanangura. chiitiko che punk.
Mumakore gumi akatevera, chitoro ichi chakashandurwa kuita Sex and Seditionaries, zvichiunza chitarisiko uye ruzha rwaive nemhedzisiro yakakura uye saka rwaikwanisa kuunganidzwa. ye“Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.” “Nguva dzadzo dzokugadzira ipfupi, mbatya dzinodhura, uye vanhu vanowanzodzitenga nokudzipfeka kusvikira dzaparara.”
Dior naFendi's artistic director, Kim Jones, ane basa rakawanda rekutanga uye anotenda kuti "Westwood naMcLaren vakagadzira purani yezvipfeko zvemazuva ano.Vaive vaoni,” anodaro.
Mamiziyamu mazhinji anounganidzawo zvinhu izvi.Michael Costiff, socialite, interior designer uye muchengeti weWorld Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, akanga ari mutengi wekutanga waVaMcLaren naAmai Westwood. Zvipfeko 178 zvaakaunganidza nemudzimai wake, Gerlinde, vava muunganidzwa weVictoria neAlbert Museum, iyo yakatenga zvakaunganidzwa naVaCostiff muna 2002 ne£42,500 kubva kuNational Art Collection Fund.
Kukosha kwevintage McLaren neWestwood kunoita kuti vave chinangwa chevapambi vemafashoni.Pamwero wakanyanya kujeka, replicas inowanikwa online uye inotengeswa zvakananga uye zvakachipa, pasina hunyengeri - inongozivikanwa graphic pane nyore t-shirt.
"Chidimbu ichi chinobva kumashure mune zvehunyanzvi nyika," akadaro Paul Stolper, muLondon-based gallerist ane muunganidzwa wakakura wezvinyorwa zvepakutanga zvepunk zvino muMetropolitan Museum of Art." Mufananidzo kana maviri kubva pane imwe nguva, saChe. Guevara kana Marilyn, anopedzisira ave kutapurirwa kuburikidza netsika dzedu.Sex Pistols inotsanangura nguva, saka mifananidzo iri kugara ichidhindwa. "
Kozoitawo emanyepo ari pachena, senge Chibereko chakachipa cheLoom t-shirt ine akarovererwa Mickey Mouse, kana iyo $190 "SEX yepakutanga" shorts yehusungwa kubva kuA Store Robot muTokyo ayo anooneka zviri nyore seasiri epakutanga, Nekuda kwe. jira idzva uye chokwadi chokuti chimiro ichi hachina kumbonyatsogadzirwa muma 1970. Musika weJapan wakazara nema fakes.
Gore rapfuura, VaGorman vakawana chipfeko chinonzi “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” paeBay kuUK, chavakatenga sechidzidzo che £100 (inenge $139).
“Muenzaniso unofadza wokunyepera,” akadaro.” Haana kumbovapo.Asi wedzero ye sirogani 'Kuparadza' uye kurwisa kwekuedza kushandisa anodiwa-katuni hunhu anoratidzwa nenzira inopikisa-tsika yakatungamira nzira yeMcLaren neWestwood.Ndinoshandisa hunyanzvi Vadhindi vakatsigira kuti ingi ndezvazvino, sezvakaita kusonwa kweT-shirt.
Chirikadzi yaVaMcLaren, Young Kim, akashanda nesimba mumakore apfuura kuchengetedza nhaka nenhaka yake. dzaive dzenhema.Mbatya dzekutanga dzaive diki.Malcolm akaita kuti vakwane iye naVivienne.Hembe zhinji paMet dzaive hombe uye dzaikwana pre-punks dzanhasi. "
Pane zvimwe zviratidzo. ”Vane bhurugwa rematweed nematehwe, zvisingawanzoitiki uye ndezvechokwadi, "Ms King vakadaro."Kusonanidzwa kuri pamusoro pebhanhire rechiuno, kwete mukati, sezvazvingava panguo yakagadzirwa zvakanaka.Uye iyo D-ring inyowani. "
Basa riri muchirongwa cheMet's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" rakakwevera pfungwa mushure mekunge Mai King naVaGorman vataura pachena pamusoro pezvinonzi manyepo uye kusaenderana kwakawanda kweshoo.
Asi pane mibvunzo pamusoro pebasa rakanga rapinda mumiziyamu makore masere apfuura.Mienzaniso inosanganisira sutu yehusungwa yairatidzwa zvikuru mushoo ye“Anglomania” ya2006, yainzi yakaitwa nemutengesi wezvigadzirwa zvekare muLondon, Simon Easton, uye kambani yekurojesa yeWestwood neMcLaren yePunk. Pistol Collection, iyo yakapa stylists nevagadziri vemafirimu, uye 2003, Iraqi Mr. Stone nemumwe wake webhizinesi, Gerald Bowey, vakagadzira museum online.
"Muna 2015, zvidimbu zviviri zveMcLaren-Westwood muunganidzwa wedu zvakatemwa kunge manyepo," akadaro Andrew Bolton, mukuru curator paMetropolitan Costume Institute." Mabasa akazodzorerwa.Tsvakurudzo yedu munzvimbo iyi iri kuenderera mberi. "
VaGorman vakatumira VaBolton maemail akati wandei vachiti mamwe mabasa ari muchirongwa ichi ane matambudziko, asi VaGorman vakati VaBolton havachamupindura. Bolton yakaramba kupa chero imwe chirevo chechinyorwa ichi.
Easton, uyo asingadi kutaura nezvechinyorwa ichi, akataura neemail kuti Bowie aimumiririra, asi zita rake haridzimikike mungano yenhema yepunk. Nekufamba kwemakore, saiti yake yePunkPistol.com, iyo yakachengetwa muna 2008, yakachengetwa. inoonekwa nevakawanda seyakavimbika yekuchengetedza sosi yepakutanga McLaren uye Westwood dhizaini.
Nekudaro, Mr Bowie vakati kunyangwe vakaedza nepavanogona napo kusimbisa kuunganidzwa, "nzira isina kurongeka iyo zvipfeko zvakatanga kuumbwa, kugadzirwa uye kudzokororwa zvakazokanganisa.Nhasi, kunyangwe nemaokisheni ekhathalogi, marisiti uye mune zvimwe zviitiko kubva kuWestwood certification, zvipfeko izvi zvichiri kupokana. "
Musi wa9 Gunyana 2008, VaMcLaren vakatanga kuziviswa nezvehukuru hwehutsotsi hwakanga hwavakomberedza ivo naMai Westwood kuburikidza netsamba yetsamba yetsamba yainge yatumirwa naVaGorman pachinyorwa ichi ikatsinhirwa naAmai Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Zvichitevera mishumo, mapurisa akapinda mudzimba muCroydon neEastbourne, kwavakawana mipumburu yezvinyorwa zveagitator," email yakadaro.Gamuchirai Mr Grant Howard naVaLee Parker. "
Grant Champkins-Howard, iye zvino ari DJ ari pasi pezita rekuti Grant Dale, naLee Parker, plumber, vakatongwa kuKingston Crown Court muna Chikumi 2010, Mutongi Susan Matthews akadaro.“Vanyepa vechinyakare”.Zvinhu zvavo zvakapambwa muna 2008 neMetropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad ndokutora nhumbi dzinonzi manyepo dzeMcLaren neWestwood nezvimwe zvakadaro, pamwe chete nemaprints eBanksy zana nemakumi maviri.
Vaviri ava vakazowanikwa vaine mhosva yekunyepera basa raBanksy.Mr.McLaren, musiki wega wehembe dzekutanga dzeBonde uye Seditionaries achida kupupura, akakumbirwa kuti aongorore zvinhu zvakabatwa uye anonongedza zviratidzo zvekuti zvipfeko zvaive zvemanyepo: saizi isiriyo yemanyorero e stencil, machira asingaenderane, kushandiswa kweYKK pane Mheni dzakatemwa zipi. , mifananidzo isiriyo juxtaposition uye dhayi yekare chena tee.
"Akatsamwa," Ms King vakadaro. "Akanzwa zvakasimba nezvekuchengetedza nekudzivirira basa rake.Zvaikosha kwaari.”Mushure mekunge kudyidzana pakati paVaMcLaren naAmai Westwood kwaparara muna 1984, pakava nekusawirirana kwenguva refu pakati pevaviri ava.
VaHoward naVaParker vakapihwa mitongo yekumbomiswa pabasa panyaya yaVaBanks, asi nyaya yembatya dzemanyepo yakaraswa pakashaya VaMcLaren muna 2010 nekuti vaive mufakazi mukuru pamuchuchisi uyu.
Zvakadaro, zvakazoitika kuti mhuri yaMai Westwood inogona kunge yakagadzira kana kukurudzira indasitiri yemanyepo yemanyepo. ”Ini ndakagadzira mashoma emamwe madhizaini ekutanga kuti ndiwane mari yekuparura Agent Provocateur,” akadaro Joe Corré, mwanakomana waVaMcLaren naMs. Westwood, uyo akavhura zvipfeko zvake zvemukati mubhizinesi ra1994.
"Takagadzirazve T-shirt yebhonzo rehuku neT-shirt ye'Venus'," Mr. Corré vakadaro. "Idzo dzakanyorwa sezvinyorwa zvidiki, dzakagadzirwa munhamba shoma yezvidimbu zana, ndokuzotengeswa kumusika weJapan. .”Pamberi peaya akatsanangurwa uye anodhura replicas, kudhirowa kwemabasa kwakaganhurirwa kune ari pachena silkscreens paholese T-shirts Kudhinda, kumhanya kwekugadzira kunokurumidza, uye mutengo wakachipa.
VaCorré vakati Vivienne Westwood akapa marezinesi ekudhirowa.McLaren akatsamwa.Mutsamba yakanyorwa musi wa14 Gumiguru 2008 kuboka raisanganisira mutori wenhau Steven Daly, Mr McLaren vakanyora kuti: “Ndiani akavabvumira kuita izvi?Ndakaudza Joe kuti arege pakarepo ndimunyorere tsamba .Ndakatsamwa.
VaCorré, avo vachangobva kuva mutungamiriri weVivienne Foundation, “vanoshandisa kodzero yebasa ravo nenzira yetsitsi kuti vawane mari yezvikonzero zvakasiyana-siyana.”Akataura kuti achaongorora nzira "yekupedza" nhema. Mai King vanoenderera mberi kurwira nhaka yaMcLaren uye vanotenda kuti vari kuramba vachidzimwa kubva munhoroondo yavo.
Bhizinesi rePunk pistol raVaEaston naVaBowey rinoramba richitengesa basa raMs. Westwood naVaMcLaren kuburikidza nechitoro cheEtsy SeditionariesInTheUK, mazhinji acho ane tsamba yekupihwa chitupa kubva kuVivienne Westwood Company, yakasainwa, yakagadzirwa uye yakachengetwa naMurray Blewett. Izvi zvaisanganisira hembe dzine mitsetse ine Peter Pan makora uye inverted sirika Karl Marx zvigamba, uye Levi's-akafemerwa donje-rabha mabhachi.
Indaneti haina kuomesesa sedzimba zhinji dzeokisheni, uye havangataure nezvechinyorwa ichi, asi vakati vanongomiririra mabasa ane bulletproof provenance, kureva mapikicha emuridzi akapfeka mbatya kuma1970.
"Zvakakosha kuti unzwisise kuti vazhinji vakabatwa nekunyepedzera vanoda kubatwa," Mr Gorman vakadaro." Ivo vanoda chaizvo kutenda kuti chikamu chenyaya yekutanga.Ndizvo zvakaita fashoni, handizvo here?Zvose zvinosundwa nechishuvo.”