Mwaka uno, indasitiri yefashoni yeTurkey yakatarisana nematambudziko akawanda, kubva padambudziko ririkuenderera mberi reCovid-19 uye kunetsana kwezvematongerwo enyika munyika dzakavakidzana, kusvika kune kuenderera mberi kwekukanganisa kwekutengesa, kutonhora kusingawanzo kumisa kugadzirwa uye dambudziko rehupfumi hwenyika, sekuonekwa kwemari yeTurkey. dambudziko maererano neUK's Financial Times.The Times yakashuma kuti inflation yakakwira makore makumi maviri ne54% muna Kurume gore rino.
Zvisinei nezvipingaidzo izvi, zvakavambwa uye tarenda rekugadzira reTurkey rakaratidza kushingirira uye tariro paIstanbul Fashion Week mwaka uno, nekukurumidza kutora musanganiswa wezviitiko uye nzira dzekuratidzira dzekuwedzera uye kuratidza kuvepo kwavo kwepasirese mwaka uno.
Kuitwa kwemuviri munzvimbo dzenhoroondo dzakadai seOttoman palace uye chechi yeCrimea yemakore zana nemakumi matanhatu inodzokera kuhurongwa, yakapindirana neinodyidzana mipiro yedhijitari, pamwe nekuratidzwa kuchangobva kuvhurwa, hurukuro dzepaneru uye pop-ups paBosphorus Puerto Galata.
Vanoronga chiitiko - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association kana İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) uye Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - vakabatana neIstanbul Soho House kuti vape vagari veko ruzivo rwepamoyo rwekuongorora uye kushanya kuburikidza nenhengo dzeindasitiri yenhepfenyuro. vateereri vanokwanisa kubatana online kuburikidza neFWI's Digital Events Center.
MuIstanbul, pakanga paine pfungwa inonzwisisika yesimba idzva mukuita uye kuongororwa kwezviitwa zvemuviri sezvo vatori vechikamu vakabatana munharaunda yavo mumunhu zvakare mumamiriro ekunze ekunze.Kunyange zvazvo vamwe vachiri kuzeza, kunzwa kunodziya kwakakunda.
"[Isu] tinosuwa kuva pamwe chete," akadaro mugadziri wezvipfeko zvechirume Niyazi Erdoğan." Simba rakawanda uye munhu wese anoda kuve pashoo.
Pazasi, BoF inosangana nevagadziri gumi vari kusimukira uye vakagadzira pazviitiko zvavo zveVhiki yeFashoni uye zviitiko kuti vaone kuti mishandirapamwe yavo uye marongero emhando akashanduka sei muIstanbul mwaka uno.
Şansım Adalı akadzidza muBrussels asati atanga Sudi Etuz. Mugadziri, uyo anokunda nzira yedhijitari-yekutanga, ari kutarisa zvakanyanya pabhizinesi rake redhijitari nhasi uye kuderedza bhizinesi rake remachira.Anoshandisa chaiwo mamodhi, madhijitari uye mainjiniya enjere. seNFT capsule yekuunganidza uye zvipfeko zvishoma zvemuviri.
Şansım Adalı anotambira chiratidziro chake kuCrimea Memorial Church padyo neGalata muIstanbul, uko madhizaini ake edhijitari anoteedzerwa pamaavatata edhijitari uye anoratidzwa pachiratidziro chakareba-mamita masere. Mushure mekufirwa nababa vake kuCovid-19, akatsanangura kuti zvichiri " handinzwe zvakanaka” kuva nevanhu vakawanda pashoo yefashoni pamwe chete. Pane kudaro, akashandisa mhando dzake dzedhijitari munzvimbo diki dzinoratidza.
"Chiitiko chakasiyana kwazvo, kuita chiratidziro chedhijitari panzvimbo yekare yekuvaka," akaudza BoF." Ini ndinoda musiyano.Munhu wose anoziva nezvechechi iyi, asi hapana anopinda. Chizvarwa chitsva hachitombozivi kuti nzvimbo idzi dziriko.Saka, ndinongoda kuona chizvarwa chechidiki mukati uye uyeuke kuti tine chivakwa chakanaka ichi. "
Chiratidziro chedhijitari chinoperekedza kuita kweopera, uye muimbi anopfeka imwe yezvipfeko zvishoma zvemuviri zvinogadzirwa naAdal nhasi - asi zvakanyanya, Sudi Etuz anotarisira kuchengetedza kutarisisa kwedhijitari.
“Zvirongwa zvangu zveramangwana ndezvekungoita kuti rutivi rwemachira erudzi rwangu ruve rudiki nekuti handifunge kuti nyika inoda imwe mhando yekugadzira ruzhinji.Ndinotarisa pamapurojekiti edhijitari.Ndine chikwata chemainjiniya emakombuta, madhijitari maartist uye zvipfeko maartist Team.Chikwata changu chekugadzira ndiGen Z, uye ndinoedza kuvanzwisisa, kuvatarisa, kuvateerera. "
Gökay Gündoğdu akatamira kuNew York kuti anodzidza manejimendi emhando asati ajoina Domus Academy muMilan muna 2007.Gündoğdu akashanda kuItaly asati atanga zita rake rehembe revakadzi reTAGG muna 2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu. yakatangwa panguva yedenda.
TAGG inopa muunganidzwa wemwaka uno nenzira yedhijitari yakawedzera museum kuratidzwa: "Tinoshandisa maQR macode uye augmented real kuona mafirimu epamhepo achibuda mumadziro akarembera - mavhidhiyo emifananidzo, senge fashoni show," Gündoğdu akaudza BoF.
"Ini handisi munhu wedhijitari," akadaro, asi panguva yedenda, "zvese zvatinoita ndezvedhijitari.Isu tinoita kuti webhusaiti yedu ive nyore uye nyore kunzwisisa.Isu tiri mu [holesale manejimendi papuratifomu] Joor akaratidzira muunganidzwa muna 2019 uye akawana vatengi vatsva uye vatsva muUS, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait. "
Kunyangwe akabudirira, kutora TAGG kumaakaundi epasi rose mwaka uno kwaratidza kunetsa. ”Nhepfenyuro dzepasi rose nevatengi vanogara vachida kuona chimwe chinhu kubva kwatiri kuTurkey.Ini handinyatso kushandisa zvinhu zvetsika - kunaka kwangu kunowedzera zvishoma, "akadaro. Asi kuti afadze vateereri vepasirese, Gündodu akakweva kurudziro kubva kumizinda yeTurkey, achitevedzera mavakirwo ayo uye zvemukati zvine mavara akafanana, maumbirwo uye silhouettes.
Dambudziko rehupfumi rakanganisawo kuunganidza kwake mwaka uno: "Lira yeTurkey iri kurasika, saka zvese zvinodhura.Kutora machira kubva kunze kwenyika kwakabatikana.Hurumende inoti hamufanirwe kuita makwikwi pakati pevanogadzira machira ekunze nemisika yemunyika.Unofanira kubhadhara mutero wakawedzerwa kuti utore kunze kwenyika.”Nekuda kweizvozvo, vagadziri vakasanganisa machira emuno neaya aitengwa kubva kuItaly neFrance.
Creative Director Yakup Bicer akatanga brand yake Y Plus, brand unisex, muna 2019 mushure memakore makumi matatu muTurkey dhizaini indasitiri.Y Plus yakatanga kuLondon Fashion Week muna Kukadzi 2020.
Muunganidzwa wedhijitari weYakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 collection inofemerwa ne "asingazivikanwe keyboard heroes nevadziviriri vavo ve crypto-anarchist ideology" uye inopa meseji yekudzivirira rusununguko rwezvematongerwo enyika pasocial media platforms.
"Ndinoda kuenderera mberi [ndichiratidza] kwechinguva," akaudza BoF. "Sezvatakaita kare, kuunza vatengi pamwe chete mukati mevhiki yefashoni inotora nguva yakawanda uye inoremedza mari.Iye zvino tinogona kusvika kumativi ese epasi panguva imwe chete nekubata bhatani rine mharidzo yedhijitari. "
Kupfuura tekinoroji, Bicer iri kusimudzira kugadzirwa kwemuno kukunda kuvhiringika kweketani - uye mukuita izvi, inotarisira kuendesa maitiro akasimba. " nyaya yainogadzira inokanganisa kutengeserana kwedu kwese.[...] Nokushanda nekugadzirwa kwemuno, tinoita kuti [mabasa] edu [akawanda] aenderere mberi, uye [isu] takaderedza kabhoni yedu.”
Ece naAyse Ege vakatanga mhando yavo Dice Kayek muna 1992. Yakagadzirwa kare muParis, mhando iyi yakabatana neFédération Française de la Couture muna 1994 uye yakapihwa Jameel Prize III, mubairo wepasi rose wehunyanzvi hwemazuva ano uye dhizaini yakafuridzirwa netsika dzechiIslam, mu 2013.The brand munguva pfupi yapfuura yakatamisa studio yayo kuIstanbul uye ine 90 vatengesi pasi rose.
Hanzvadzi dzaDice Kayek Ece naAyse Ege vakaratidza kuunganidzwa kwavo muvhidhiyo yefashoni mwaka uno - chimiro chedhijitari chavanoziva, vanga vachigadzira mafirimu efashoni kubva 2013.Ivhure uye udzokere kwairi.Ine kukosha kwakawanda.Mune gumi kana Makore gumi nemaviri, unogona kuiona zvakare. Tinoda zvakasiyana-siyana, "Ece akaudza BoF.
Nhasi, Dice Kayek inotengesa pasi rose kuEurope, US, Middle East neChina. Nechitoro chavo muParis, vakasiyanisa ruzivo rwevatengi muchitoro nekushandisa tsika dzeTurkey senzira ine ruzivo rwekutengesa. mabhureki makuru chero kupi, uye hazvibatsire kuita izvozvo, "akadaro Ayse, uyo akati brand inoronga kuvhura chimwe chitoro muLondon gore rino.
Masisita aya akambotanga bhizinesi rawo kubva kuParis asati atamira kuIstanbul, uko situdiyo yavo yakanamatira kuimba yeshoo yeBeaumonti. Dice Kayek akapinza bhizinesi ravo zvizere akaona kugadzira kwacho kuchiwedzera kuita pundutso, “chimwe chinhu chataisakwanisa kuita patakanga tichigadzira mune imwe fekitari. ”Mukuunza kugadzirwa mumba, masisita aitarisirawo kuti hunyanzvi hweTurkey hunotsigirwa uye hunochengetwa mukuunganidzwa kwayo.
Niyazi Erdoğan ndiye mugadziri wekutanga weIstanbul Fashion Week 2009 uye Mutevedzeri weMutungamiriri weTurkey Fashion Designers Association, uye mudzidzisi paIstanbul Fashion Academy. Pamusoro pemutsara wehembe dzechirume, akatanga iyo accessories brand NIYO muna 2014 uye akahwina European. Museum Award mugore rimwe chete.
Niyazi Erdoğan akapa kuunganidzwa kwake zvipfeko zvevarume mwaka uno: "Tese tiri kugadzira digitaalinen izvozvi - tinoratidza muMetaverse kana NFTs.Isu tinotengesa muunganidzwa zvese nedhijitari uye nemuviri, tichienda nemativi ese.Tinoda kugadzirira ramangwana revaviri ava,” akaudza BoF.
Zvakadaro, mumwaka unotevera, akati, “Ini ndinofunga tinofanirwa kuve neshoo yemuviri.Fashoni ndeye nzanga uye manzwiro, uye vanhu vanofarira kuva pamwe chete.Kune vanhu vanogadzira, tinoda izvi. "
Munguva yedenda, mhando yakagadzira chitoro chepamhepo uye yakachinja kuunganidza kwavo kuita "kutengesa zviri nani" pamhepo, vachifunga nezve shanduko yezvinodiwa nevatengi panguva yedenda. inotengeswa kuvakadziwo, saka hapana miganhu.”
Semudzidzisi paIMA, Erdogan anogara achidzidza kubva kuchizvarwa chinotevera. "Kune chizvarwa chakaita seAlfa, kana uri mufashoni, unofanira kuvanzwisisa.Chiono changu ndechekunzwisisa zvavanoda, kuve nehurongwa hwekuenderera mberi, dhijitari, ruvara, kucheka uye chimiro - isu tinofanirwa kushanda naVanodyidzana. "
Mumwe akapedza kudzidza kuIstituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker akashandira makambani akadai saFrankie Morello, Colmar naFurla asati atanga zita rake rezita muna 2012, achigadzira akagadzirira-kupfeka, bridal uye couture collections.Akaratidzira kuLondon, Paris neMilan Fashion Weeks.
Kupemberera kusvitsa makore gumi mwaka uno, Nihan Peker akaita fashoni kuÇırağan Palace, yaimbova imba yeOttoman yakatendeuka kubva muhotera yakatarisana neBosphorus. " Peker akaudza BoF. ”Makore gumi gare gare, ndinonzwa senge ndinogona kubhururuka ndakasununguka uye kupfuura zvandinoda.
"Zvakanditorera nguva kuti ndiratidze kuti ndiri munyika yangu," akawedzera Peker, akagara pamberi mwaka uno nevakakurumbira veTurkey vakapfeka madhizaini kubva muunganidzwa wake wekare. pesvedzero muMiddle East.
"Vese vagadziri veTurkey vanofanirwa kufunga nezvematambudziko edunhu redu nguva nenguva.Kutaura chokwadi, senyika, tinofanirwa kutarisana nenhau hombe dzemagariro nezvematongerwo enyika, saka tese tinorasikirwa nekusimba zvakare.Chandinotarisa pari zvino chiri kuburikidza nekuunganidzwa kwangu Kwekugadzirira-ku-kupfeka uye haute couture kunogadzira rudzi rutsva rwekupfeka, runako runogadzirwa. "
Mushure mekupedza kudzidza kubva kuIstanbul Fashion Institute muna 2014, Akyuz akadzidzira dhigirii remasters muMenswear Design paMarangoni Academy kuMilan. Akashandira Ermenegildo Zegna neCostume National asati adzokera kuTurkey muna 2016 uye akatanga zita rake rehembe dzechirume muna 2018.
Muchirongwa chechitanhatu chemwaka, Selen Akyuz akagadzira firimu rakaratidzwa paSoho House muIstanbul nepamhepo: “Ibhaisikopo, saka harisi fashoni chaiyo, asi ndinofunga richiri kushanda.Uyewo zvepfungwa. "
Sebhizimusi diki retsika, Akyuz iri kuvaka zvishoma nezvishoma diki revatengi vepasi rese, ine vatengi vava kuUS, Romania neAlbania. ”Ini handidi kusvetuka nguva dzese, asi zvitore zvishoma nezvishoma , uye tora nzira yakadzikama,” akadaro.” Tinobudisa zvinhu zvose patafura yangu yokudyira.Iko hakuna kugadzirwa kwakawanda.Ndinoita zvinenge zvese nemaoko” - kusanganisira kugadzira ma t-shirts, heti, zvishongedzo nemabhegi e "chigamba, asara" kukurudzira maitiro ekugadzira achienderera mberi.
Iyi nzira yekudzika-dzika inoenda kune vaanoshanda navo mukugadzira. ”Panzvimbo yekushanda nevagadziri vakuru, ndanga ndichitsvaga vacheke venzvimbo vadiki kuti vatsigire mhando yangu, asi zvave zvakaoma kuwana vanokwanisa.Nyanzvi dzinoshandisa nzira dzechinyakare dzakaoma kuwana - kutora kwevashandi vechizvarwa chinotevera vashoma.
Gökhan Yavaş akapedza kudzidza kubva kuDEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design muna 2012 uye akadzidza kuIMA asati atanga hembe dzake dzemumugwagwa muna 2017.
Mwaka uno, Gökhan Yavaş anopa vhidhiyo pfupi neshoo yefashoni - yake yekutanga mumakore matatu. "Tinosuwa chaizvo - inguva yekutaura nevanhu zvakare.Tinoda kuramba tichiita mitambo yemafashoni nekuti pa Instagram, zviri kuramba zvichioma kutaurirana.Zviri pamusoro pekusangana uye kunzwa kubva kuvanhu vakatarisana, ”akadaro mugadziri.
Chiratidzo chiri kuvandudza pfungwa yekugadzira. "Takarega kushandisa dehwe rechokwadi uye rechokwadi," akatsanangura, achitsanangura kuti zvitarisiko zvitatu zvekutanga zvemuunganidzwa zvakabatanidzwa kubva kumakavha akagadzirwa mumiunganidzwa yekare. Yavaş zvakare ave kuda kushandira pamwe DHL kugadzira raincoat kuti itengese kune vanopa rubatsiro rwezvakatipoteredza.
Tarisiro yekusagadzikana yaratidza kunetsa kumhando, dambudziko rekutanga riri kutsvaga mamwe machira emhunga kubva kune vatengesi.Dambudziko rechipiri ravakatarisana naro nderekuvhura chitoro muTurkey kuti vatengese zvipfeko zvechirume, ukuwo vatengi veko vanotarisa kuTurkey Womenswear Designs division.Zvichakadaro, nepo brand ichitengesa kuburikidza newebhusaiti yavo uye zvitoro zvepasi rese muCanada neLondon, yavo inotevera inotarisa Asia - kunyanya Korea. uye China.
Wearable art brand Bashaques yakavambwa muna 2014 naBaşak Cankeş.Chiratidzo ichi chinotengesa zvipfeko zvekushambira uye kimonos zvine dingindira rayo nehunyanzvi.
"Kazhinji, ini ndinoita kudyidzana kwehunyanzvi nemifananidzo inopfekwa," director director Başak Cankeş akaudza BoF nguva pfupi yadarika mushure mekuburitsa muunganidzwa wake wemaminitsi makumi mana nemashanu paSoho House muIstanbul.
Chiratidziro chinotaurira nyaya yekufamba kwake kuPeru neColombia kunoshanda nevashandi vavo, vachitora maitiro eAnatolian nezviratidzo, uye "kuvabvunza kuti vainzwa sei pamusoro peAnatolian [zvinyorwa]". Zvichitora pane yakagovaniswa nhaka yetsika ye shamanism, nhevedzano inoongorora. maitiro akajairika ehunyanzvi pakati peAsia Turkish Anatolia nenyika dzeSouth America.
“Inenge 60 muzana yechikamu chimwe chete, zvose zvakarukwa nemaoko nevakadzi muPeru neAnatolia,” anodaro.
Cankeş anotengesa kune vanotora art muTurkey uye anoda kuti vamwe vatengi vaunganidze mamuseum kubva kubasa rake, achitsanangura kuti "haafarire kuve brand yepasirese nekuti zvakaoma kuve brand yepasirese uye inoenderera.Ini handitombodi kuita chero muunganidzwa wezvidimbu gumi kunze kwekushambira kana kimonos.Iyo yakazara pfungwa, inoshanduka art muunganidzwa watichaisa paNFTs zvakare.Ndinozviona ndiri muimbi, kwete mugadziri wemafashoni. "
Iyo Karma Collective inomiririra tarenda riri kusimukira reIstanbul Moda Academy, yakavambwa muna 2007, ichipa madhigirii muFashoni Dhizaini, Tekinoroji uye Kuvandudza Chigadzirwa, Kutungamira Kwemafashoni, uye Kukurukurirana Kwemafashoni neMedia.
"Dambudziko guru randinaro nderemamiriro ekunze, nekuti kwange kuri kunaya sinou kwemavhiki maviri apfuura, saka tine matambudziko mazhinji neketani yekugovera uye machira ekutsvaga," Hakalmaz akaudza BoF.She akagadzira muunganidzwa muzvikamu zviviri chete. mavhiki ezita rake Alter Ego, inoratidzwa sechikamu cheKarma yakaunganidzwa, uye zvakare yakagadzirirwa fashoni imba Nocturne.
Hakalmaz haasisiri kushandisa zvigadziriso zvetekinoroji kutsigira chirongwa chake chekugadzira, achiti: "Ini handifarire kushandisa tekinoroji uye ndinogara kure nazvo nepandinogona napo nekuti ndoda kuita zvemaoko kuti ndirambe ndichionana zvekare."
Nguva yekutumira: May-11-2022
